Having returned from nearly three weeks in Eastern Europe, our first vacation over four days since our honeymoon and our first trip abroad together ever, both Ben and I are experiencing a mild form of visual culture shock. In Prague and Salzburg, and driving through the Czech and Austrian countryside visiting castles (in varying states of ruin), we experienced a never-ending buffet of visual delights. Even the most modest cow shed carried flourishes that suggested care, attention to detail, and a perspective that allowed for a tad bit of form over function.
A corner detail in the Prague Castle complex that shows the Sgraffito technique, a scratching away of a render top-coat to reveal the color underneath.
That is not to say that such care doesn't exist in the United States, but it certainly feels less standard. To be fair, though, Europe does have a few centuries of standing structures on us. The castle in Salzburg, Hohensalzburg, was started in the 11th century and the current interiors date to the very early 16th century — and it wasn't even the oldest residential interior we visited.
Below, Ben reflects on the history of the area, Bohemia, which he focused on during his year at Oxford, and the layers time has created to create such a rich visual landscape:
We had the great pleasure of traveling recently in the Czech Republic and Austria. Bohemia is the westernmost and largest of the historical regions of the Czech Republic, having formerly made up the heartlands of the Bohemian crown. It has historically neighbored Bavaria to the West, Austria to the south, Saxony and Lusatia to the north, and Silesia and Moravia in the east.
I first grew interested in the region of ancient Bohemia when I studied 14th century England.
This region has always stood on the great crossroads of Mittel Europa, or central Europe, and in its courts and castles a tremendous degree of cultural exchange occurred between East and West. It was a border region, and like many others contested areas throughout history, the complicated blending of different societies led to potent cultural creations.
Queen Anne of Bohemia (1366-1394), wife of Richard II (1367-1400), introduced a great deal of continental high style in the late fourteenth century. Reportedly, the conical “princess hat” that has become synonymous with damsels trapped in towers was based on fashion introduced by the Bohemians Anne brought with her to the English court. She also reportedly brought the first side-saddles to England, introducing that peculiar equestrian mode to Western Europe.
This all piqued my interest as a student as, in my ignorance, I had not expected to find the cutting edge of courtly fashion on the far edges of the Holy Roman Empire.
Delving into the history of the region, one finds a fascinating synthesis of cultures, and an area with deep and meaningful history of conflict and cooperation. Occupying at once the outer boundaries of Europe, and the central position in Europe’s relations with itself, the land that is now the Czech Republic is a deep seam to tap for inspiration and encouragement.
Now back in the states, we spent time today walking around our own home-making project. Rather than causing us to question our decisions, our trip confirmed and strengthened them. Excited to share updates on that front soon, but for now imagine warm white render, light limestone, and metalwork details.
