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An Arcadian Revival with Skillet Parker House Rolls

Pippa putting parker house rolls into oven during Arcadian Revival shoot

When designer Bethany Khan created Arcadian Revival, her firm and brand and ethos, she was harkening back to not just a time or a look, but a feeling. She puts an emphasis on togetherness and slowness — a priority we share in our own lives. Efficiency is not, after all, the ultimate goal in what we do. It's savoring the full range of flavors of life.  

Valentine's Day, or month, I guess, as marketing has exploded the holiday as it has want to do, is so centered around stuff that it sort of cancels out the central conceit — that time together with the people we love is precious, and worth pausing on. My love isn't measured in boxes of chocolate nor chemically-treated thornless roses, but in minutes and moments. 

Lately, some of my most treasured experiences have been in the kitchen with our son. He's gotten quite good (for 3.5 years old) at scrambling eggs, rolling out dough, and taste testing from the stand mixer, although the last typically is off-script. We both wear monogramed aprons, his a gift from his grandparents and mine sewn for me by my mother when I was in high school, or just thereabouts. 

Our time in the kitchen together inspired me to bring a bowl of dough to Bethany's for the shoot, as I was intent on assembling Parker House Rolls there on the spot. A pull-apart bread, best topped with an obscene amount of butter, felt fitting for the place and time and people around us. We were coming together, savoring the flavors of life, with a touch of Maldon. 

Pippa brushing butter onto Parker House Rolls
image by Mary Laniewski

Skillet Parker House Rolls (makes 10-12) 

These pull-apart rolls are best served warm with good butter, and originated in the later half of the 19th century at the Parker House Hotel in Boston. 

Ingredients

  • 2 cups + 3 tbsp bread flour (plus more for dusting) 
  • 1/2 cup milk, cold 
  • 1 egg 
  • 1 1/2 tsp yeast 
  • 2 tbsp sugar 
  • 1 tsp fine kosher salt 
  • 7 tbsp melted butter + 1 tbsp for skillet(s) 
  • 1/4c really good butter 
  • 1 tsp flaky salt, like Maldon 

Instructions

  1. Set one 10" cast iron skill, or two smaller skillets, aside to use in baking. 
  2. Heat 1/2 cup tap water in a saucepan over medium heat until simmering. Add the 3 tbsp of bread flour and turn off heat. Whisk until pudding-like, which should take less than a minute. If not coming together, turn heat on to the lowest setting, but it should form a paste almost immediately. Set aside to cool. 
  3. Once cool, whisk the milk and egg into the flour paste. Move the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer and add the yeast and remaining flour. Using the dough hook, mix on low for 2 minutes. It will look like a mess. This is okay. Rest for 15 minutes. 
  4. After resting, add the sugar and kosher salt, and mix at medium-low speed for 5 minutes. Add half of the melted butter and mix 5 more minutes. Scrape down the sides of the mixer to encourage everything to combine if needed. 
  5. Transfer dough to floured work surface and knead into a ball. Put ball in a lightly-oiled bowl (I like to quickly clean the mixer bowl and use it for this). Cover with a damp kitchen towel, and let double in size. About 1 hour depending on the temperature in the kitchen — so longer in our winter. 
  6. Turn dough out onto floured work surface and divide into equally sized pieces using a dough cutter, or just your hands. I suggest 10-12. Rest for a few minutes while you grease your pan(s) with the 1 tbsp noted in the ingredients. You can use more, not less. 
  7. Knead each piece of dough lightly before pinching into a ball by smooshing into a square before taking each corner and joining them at what will be the bottom of the roll. If you try this a few times, it'll start to become a rhythm. When you've formed each ball, place it in a skillet They should brush up against each other lightly, and not be squished. 
  8. Cover with a damp towel until significantly risen and 'puffy', about 45 min. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375F. 
  9. Brush the rolls with the remaining (re)melted butter and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. 
  10. Bake for 20-25 minutes, depending on your oven. 
  11. Serve warm with good butter and more flaky salt. 
Forming rolls in the Arcadian Revival kitchen
The rolls rise on the stove, flanked by Quittner pieces
grabbing a roll with Arcadian Revival

What we're listening to: Old Man's Grace by Nathan Evans 

Quittner Pieces Shown

Palatine Collection, Buttermilk
Linen Tea Towel, White Stripe
Breakfast Boards 
Surface Lamp, White Stripe Rustic Linen
Classic Vase

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